Temple Crag (12,982') - Venusian Blind (IV, 5.7)

With splendid summer-like conditions extending into October, I managed to sneak out into the High Sierra for another alpine rock climb. I met up with my friend Sue (a.k.a Crowbar), an enthusiastic alpinist from the Bay area. We had climbed earlier in the summer in the Bugaboos, and this time we settled on climbing Temple Crag in the Palisade Range.

Temple Crag - Venusian Blind climbs one of the left hand aretes.

We opted to climb Venusian Blind (IV, 5.7), a 1500' 13+ pitch route which ascends on the the "celestial aretes) on the North east side of the mountain. The route is the sunniest and one of the shorter routes up the mountain, so seemed like a good option for the short and potentially cold October days. 

We met up on Saturday afternoon, and began the six mile hike up the North Fork of Big Pine Creek to third lake. Being in full Himalayan training mode, I intentionally packed a heavy load (45 lbs) and we slowly made our way up the beautiful hike. 

Aspen forest on the approach - Photo credit - Sue  a.k.a crowbar

We arrived at camp at third lake around 3 PM, and settled in for a few hours of hanging out before an early sunset. 

Yummy - Ramen creation. Photo credit - Sue

Sue is excited to climb tomorrow!

We hit the hay pretty soon after sunset, and set the alarms for 5am. Not too bad. 

Pre-dawn approaches. Photo credit - Sue

After aimless wandering around the talus field approach for about 90 minutes we eventually found our way to the start of the climb around dawn.  The normal approach is to take a snow field up to some 3rd class ledges. However, we had neglected to pack ice axes and crampons, and even through the snow slope was low angle, it was rock hard and basically impossible to go up. So instead, we opted to take a dirt 5.6 chimney which bypassed most of the snow, and added 2 pitches to the route.

Start of Venusian Blind (add Moon Goddess arete)

Just as we started up the chimney, two groups of 2 climbers showed up. I'm glad we first on the route!

We basically solo'd a few hundred feet of 3rd class before reaching the set of towers leading up the various celestial aretes. After looking at some photos and topos we started up (the correct route!).

From there the climbing was engaging, easy and occasionally fairly exposed. Much more involved than say the East Buttress of Whitney. We stayed ahead of the groups behind us for about 6 pitches, then at the 7th pitch we dallied a bit to do some route finding, and the party behind (a guide+client) caught up to us.

Sue snagged some of the better pitches en route, and did a great job leading some bold pitched. Well done Sue! 

As is the case on these routes I didn't really take many pictures, but Sue snapped a few.

Me leading up one of the towers (P6?) - Photo credit - Sue

Somewhere on Venusian Blind - Photo credit - Sue

Near the top of the route, it become more of a horizontal narrow ridge. We let the guide pass us, and stayed fairly close behind them for last few hundred feet of the route. 

One of the more memorable moments on the climb was an exciting step over a 4 foot wide gap in the ridge. Very airy and exposed, but dead easy.

 awkwardly climbing down into the gap - Photo credit - Sue

Looking down the exposed gap - yikes!- PC- Sue

After that was some easy rambly scrambling up to the summit plateau.

Last 5th class moves before the route ended - PC - Sue

We relaxed on the summit plateau, enjoying the fine views of the Palisades. We opted too skip the true summit, and started the long hike down to pack up camp and get back to the cars.

Sue on the "summit" of Venusian Blind

The descent, as all Sierra descents are, was fairly heinous, involving a mix of scree and boulder jumping. We paused to refuel at our camp, then booked it the 6 miles back to the parking lot. About 14 hours from camp - summit - car. 

A great trip, climbing with Sue was fun, she's a great, strong partner. I'm looking forward to our next trip into the mountains!

Cheesy cracker refuel on the way down