North Peak - Mt Conness - Linkup

Paul Souza and I zipped up highway 120 Friday night to climb a classic High Sierra link-up, the Northwest ridge of North Peak (II, 5.3) and the North Ridge of Mt. Conness (II, 5.6). We both had climbed the Mt. Conness route previously, but neither of us had done the North Peak route.

Paul below North Peak. The Northwest ridge takes the left hand skyline

We bivied in the Saddle Bag lake parking lot, and had a fairly leisurely dawn start. The hike to the Northwest ridge of North Peak is fairly easy, only about 4 miles with 1500' or so of elevation gain. The hike is truly nice, this area is one of the most accessible alpine areas in the entire Sierra Nevada.

Lakes and meadows on the approach

Paul is stoked on the views

Getting close to the ridge

The route up North Peak was very casual, we didn't bother to rope up, I climbed it in approach shoes, and Paul had no problems doing it in running shoes. There were two short cruxes, which involved down climbing into notches and then climbing back out again. I would say the difficulties stayed in the 4th class range. Most of the ridge was easy 3rd class scrambling, and there was one  enjoyable and moderately exposed 4th class bit on a narrow steeper part of the ridge. 

The author high up on the Northwest ridge of North Peak. Photo credit - Paul S. 

Paul - near the top of the ridge

We relaxed on the summit for a bit, and chatted with another climber who had just soloed up the North-east couloir of North Peak. We hiked down to the saddle with Mt Conness, and started up the next route, the North Ridge of Mt. Conness.

Summit views - Taboose fire burning in the valley

North Ridge of Mt. Conness

We made short work of the North Ridge, I think it only took 90 minutes to descend North Peak and climb the whole ridge. We never felt the need for a rope, except too rappel from the two towers on the ridge. A highly enjoyable scramble. 

Paul nearing the top of the North Peak.

The author near the summit of North Peak - Photo credit - Paul S. 

It took us about 5 hours from the car to climb both routes. We were bth feeling pretty good. One problem with our chosen route, was that the standard descent would deposit a few miles and several hundred vertical feet below where we parked the car. I had the "brilliant" idea of taking the east ridge down. 

This turned out to be the hardest part of the day, as it involved long distances of crumby 3rd class choss, and mind numbing slabs. Well, now at least I know why people don't normally descent this way!

North Peak to Mt Conness link-up with East ridge descent.