Big Sleep - Gumby's Adventure

With my summer teaching ending, and my year long sabbatical officially starting, I was eager to get out and celebrate with some rock climbing! Teresa and I both love Big Sleep, a 1000' tall slab up on Shuteye Ridge

Big Sleep!

 I have climbed Big Sleep a bunch of times, usually by the trade routes - Afternoon Nap (II, 5.6) or Moonlight Madness (II, 5.8), this time we decided to try a different route, Gumby's Adventure on the Crystal Highway (II, 5.9 R). The route followed a dike and vein of quartz up the big slab. The route was pretty run-out on the slab, with 50-80 run-outs between bolts, but the climbing was very easy.

Teresa coming up the crystal highway

I'm psyched to be back on Big Sleep

Because the route was so run-out I actually missed a belay station, blow right by it, and ended up having to belay on a single bolt after simul-climbing a bit (oops!)
Teresa had a great time and even took the sharp end on one of the run-out pitches. Go Bunner!

Teresa on the sharp end

The crux pitch went up a flake on the head-wall. It was rated 5.9, but felt a bit easier. The flake was a bit spooky, I placed gear but I'm not sure if the flake would have stayed on if I blow it! After that it was run-outs on a sea of knobs. Fun times!

Crux. Flake is off to the right and merges into the runnel above.

We topped out and rapped down Afternoon Nap. What a great way to start my sabbatical and a god warm up for our 3 week trip to BC

Top out!