Fresno Dome - December Sun

A high pressure ridge sitting out on the Pacific ocean had meant weeks of sunny warm weather in California, when it should be wet and snowing. Taking full advantage of this beautiful weather, I have spent the past 2 weekends at one my favorite climbing venues - Fresno Dome. Normally by this time of year it would be way to cold to climb there, and the road would be closed from snow, but not this year!

There was only a tiny bit of snow on the approach trail and the road. The dome itself was totally clear, warm and sunny. Feeling more like Sept or Oct than December!

 

Approaching Fresno Dome

The only snow -- in the shade on the North side of the dome

Last weekend Teresa, Michelle Johnson, Penny and Bart headed out for a mellow day of climbing.  First off was - Giggity Giggity, and enjoyable 5.8 face and crack climb

Michelle on Giggity giggity.

Bart supervises

 We then set up a top-rope on "Bitch Stewie" (5.11+) - a delightful corner/crack system with a tricky stem box start. Very fun. 

Michelle in the stem crux of Bitch Stewie (5.11+)

Master belay

We then headed over to the East face, and I led up the first pitch of Mule Train. Sadly the pitch was greater than 35 meters, resulting in some shenanigans for me to get back down. Teresa and Michelle didn't get to climb it. We then finished the day with some easy leading and hard top roping on the Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah buttress. A great day!

The next weekend, the weather still great. Back to Fresno Dome. Since I did not get to complete Mule Train, which is one of the classic old routes on Fresno Dome, Teresa and I decided to head back and climb the whole route to the summit (Mule Train, II, 5.9 PG13)

Mule Train

The climbing on Mule Train, was fun - run-out but very easy. Giant features to climb on!

Teresa climbs up a sea of chicken heads

 

Pitch 2

Good times!

The 3rd pitch was the crux, some spicy technical slab. 

Pitch 3

 

Pitch 4

We relaxed and enjoyed some lunch on the summit. Yet another classic Fresno Dome Multi-pitch completed. 

Summit!

 After lunch, we packed up and headed back down and around to the West Face. There we gave the difficult "Time Lapse (II, 5.11b) a shot. It was one of the hardest leads I have done, I fell at the crux so will have to return and try it again clean. Very challenging face climbing.

Time Lapse - 5.11b

 

Old bolt on the West Face

After climbing Time Lapse, we called it a day, and headed back home. I spend a fair amount of time admiring the climbs on the West Face, so much to climb there. It might have to wait for next season, unless this high pressure system stays around a bit longer!

Routes on the West face!

Bye Fresno Dome and your beautiful Pine Cones!