The Bugs were a mind bending experience.
The most beautiful mountains I have ever seen, the Bugaboo group of the Purcell Range. This place is surreal. An alpine playground with perfect rock, solid protection, amazing cracks; all with astounding views.
Day 1 - Arrival.
The night before we dove from Calgary to Radium Hot springs, and then headed down the 50 Km dirt road from the logging town of Brisco to Bugaboo provincial park. We found a nice loggin spur to set camp. We stayed the night, and in the morning set about the task of organizing 7 days of food and climbing gear.
|What should we pack?|
After a couple of hours of organizing we hit the road and grabbed a spot in the parking lot. There is an issue with marmots and porcupines eating car tires and hoses, so you have to protect your vehicle with chicken wire.
|Sweet, the car is protected|
|The hike up, the Hounds Tooth in the background.|
After about 2 hours of hiking we arrived at the Bugaboo ACC hut, our accommodations for the next 6 days. It has electricity, hot water, a full service kitchen and room for 50 climbers, luxury.
|The ACC Hut. Our home for 6 days.|
|Kyle consults one of the many guidebooks in the dining area of the hut|
|Kitchen facilities in the hut|
Day 2 - West Ridge of Pigeon Spire
The thing with the Bugaboos is the weather is bad. It is often really nice in the morning, but then in the afternoon thunderstorms move in. This means alpine starts. So we woke up at 4:30 am to climb out first objective, the west ridge of Pigeon Spire. Sometimes called the best 5.4 on the planet.
The approach involved a 1000' hike up a glacier moiraine, then another 1000' feet up a very steep snow slope to gain the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. After that, a couple of Km across a glacier to reach the base of the route.
|Kyle starts up the Col in the dawn light|
|Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, the steep snow between the two peaks|
|Approaching Pigeon Spire (left)|
|Early morning views on the approach|
|Kyle on the climb|
|I pause to enjoy the view|
|On the knife edge|
|Another money shot of the knife edge|
|Does life get better than this?|
|Reversing the climb|
|Heading back to the hut after a great morning|
We were back to the hut after about 8 hours round trip. Much faster than I expected. We relaxed and prepared for the next day of climbing.....