First ascents - new sport routes

 Myself, the boys and my lovely wife have been busy putting up a series of new routes out at a crag. It's a bit of hump to get up to the crag, so carrying 60 lbs of bolting gear up and down that big hill has made for some slow new routing. That being said, we have put up a handful of fun new climbs which add to the large amount of development that Mr. Doe and others have been up to over the past decade. Once word is out, this whole area will be a premier climbing spot in the Western sierra.

Ted on the FA of Summer Rain (5.10-)

"The Booklet" - A wonderful small crag about 35 meters tall

We have added 4 routes so far, and 3 more are in development. Stay tuned!

1) Slip and Slide. 5.10c, 10 bolts. 32 meters

First climb on the wall. Start up the easy somewhat dirty feature past 2 bolts to gain the ledge with the little pine . Climb straight up the slab, tricky well-protected crux followed by easier and slightly more run-out climbing to the top of the dome. Chain anchor

FA Cory Brooks, (Teresa Brooks belayed) 08/27/23

 

2) Bunner’s route (aka Yarrow), 5.8, 8 bolts and cams 0.5-2, 32 meters

Same start as slip and slide, but instead traverse right to the little pine tree. Head straight up the crack (gear 0.5 – 2) and then gain the bolted face. Ends at the same chain anchor as Slip and Slide

FA Teresa and Cory Brooks, 08/27/23

 

3) Summer rain, 5.10a, 6 bolts, cams to 1”, 32 meters

Start on some bolts just below the right-hand end of the ledge with the small tree. Climb straight up onto a sloper (crux at the first bolt) then follow the bolt line on the slab. When the bolts end, place gear in the small crack, and head up the face to a final bolt. Easy gear protected climbing to a bolted anchor (no chain). Rappel on the chain for 1+2

FA Cory Brooks, Nathan Kelly, Ted Baker, 09/11/23

 

4) Trad dad’s revenge, 5.11a/b, 10 bolts, 32 meters

Start on the low angle slab, climb past 2 bolts. Climb through 2 small roofs then traverse into the golden colored buttress feature. Technical climbing though this section, past a small bulge, followed by easier climber above to the anchor. Bolting is a bit spicier above the buttress.

FA Ted Baker, Cory Brooks, 09/17/23

 Upper level-- A nice wall, only 1 route so far. Lots of killer bouldering in the area. The local boulder bros (NK and friends) put in some 5-star problems while I worked on Union Labor.

More routes to come shortly!

Union labor, 5.10b, 6 bolts. 20 meters

Start on big jugs make some fun dynamic moves. Bust right, pull the crux, then cruiser climbing to a 2-bolt ring anchor.

FA Cory Brooks and Nathan Kelly, 10/8/2023.