Secret Sierra - Climbing obscurities on the Western slope

With the whole Covid-19 thing shutting down my lab and the world, I have spent countless days over the past couple of months climbing at more obscure formations in the San Joaquin River gorge and in "Southern Yosemite".

In the past 90 days I have been outside climbing 35 days, logged more than 100 routes, and more than 200 pitches. Not bad for an old man.

First up, for my 40th birthday was the Fuller Buttes. I had wanted to do my first 5.12 redpoint on my birthday, but there was still far to much fresh grief from Penny's death for such a venture. Instead, we headed to the Fuller Buttes. These a massive pair of granite dome, 1000' tall, with perfect rock. Despite being in plain view, there is surprisingly little information on the climbing there. I managed to get information on two moderate Jerry Anderson routes on East Fuller Butte, "Meridian Passage, 7 pitches, 5.9" and "The substitute, 3 pitches, 5.8". We did both climbs, which were easy, and had mediocre slab climbing. The summit however was excellent!

Slabby granite on "Meridian Passage"

Trevor looks over at the West Fuller Butte

Sublime

Nice belay ledge

I turned 40 today (May 13th)

On a separate trip Trevor and I then hit up two domes in day, which was an excellent idea!

In the morning we climbed "Do it don't spew it" (III, 5.11c) on Disappearing Dome. The route was excellent, featuring a mix of crack, slab and dike climbing. Very fun! We followed that up in the afternoon with an ascent of "Snake" (II, 5.8) on Piyau Dome. What an amazing day!

Approaching the back of Disappearing Dome

Looking up at the first pitch of "Do it don't spew it"

Trevor is having a good time on the traverse 5.11a pitch!

The backside of Piyau Dome

Glory handjams on Snake

Trevor reflects on the grand day we had

In addition to all the domes, I have been spending a fair amount of time climbing at the Sphinx. This is a recently developed Sport crag, with 100+ climbs ranging form 5.7 - 5.12+. The climbing is featured, steep, well protected. Its some of the best sport climbing in our area!  Its quite fun to hop on routes not knowing the grade. I found myself a wonderful steep project there, in the 5.11+ - 5.12 range.

A wall at the Sphinx

Trevor climbs some steep granite

I climb some steep!

Teresa enjoys some moderate climbing at the Sphinx

In addition to the usually Shuteye ridge climbing, I managed to put up three new routes at Fresno Dome. There was a detached unclimbed pillar below the West face, which we dubbed "Penny's Pillar", in honor of our little buddy.

Penny's pillar

One of the new routes tackles the roof. Fun.

Although not on my 40th birthday, I did mange to nab that first 5.12 redpoint. "Merry Christmas" on the Christmas wall at Chilkoot, I successfully redpointed. Thanks to Teresa, Susan and Trevor for belaying me while I worked to link all the moves on that one.