Sunday, February 24, 2019

Winter cragging

California has has a very WET winter! Great for the mountains, the reservoirs and the skiers, less good for the rock jocks. The bad weather has meant a bit more gym time than I am used to, but it has probably been a net positive for my climbing. I've pushed through some important mental barriers in the past month.

In the gym, I am routinely sending 5.12 now, which has been historically been very difficult for me. I have also had a lot of "air time" taking  many falls on lead in the gym. This has translated to greater comfort leading outside, and has let me push my limits sport and trad climbing.

Despite the unusually wet and cold weather we have had for the past 5 weeks, I have managed to get in a fair amount of climbing, although I have had to drive far and wide for it!

We have made a few trips to Barstow, I sent several 5.11s, which again has been historically a mental barrier for me. Michelle Johsnon has become an enthusiastic climbing partner, I find her interest in hard sport climbing has been a good motivator for me to try hard.


Michelle takes the sharp-end at Barstow
Me leading at the Bighorn buttress
We took three trips to Barstow since January, despite chilly temps,each trip was quite good. I had a few fantastic moments where I got into the zone, entering a flow state and on-sighting some difficult (for me) climbs. 

New Jack City - Sport climbing in the high desert near Barstow
 
Onsight!

I have also spend a fair amount of time up at Danland. Dan and crew put up a new crag with some very fun overhanging cracks. 

Danland!
 At Danland I met up with a climber from So-cal, and I brought my aiders out of retirement, which was quite fun. Maybe I'll even get back into wall climbing....

Toby getting the aiders out
 
Climbing the nose at Squirrel Creek. If only the real nose were so easy!
Also to the list of winter cragging was a trip out to Kernville to climb at New Directions. Despite sub-freezing temps, and a bit of snowfall, the nice West facing sunny crag gave us a nice day of climbing.


Penny came long for the ride
 
Getting ready to climb

Not so impressed with the snow fall....
The next few weeks are busy for me, conferences and workshops. Hopefully the weather will be good by mid-March and I can get back to the rocks!

Sunset at Danland