Visting scientist -- Rock climbing blitz

Last summer in Peru my tent mate was Dr. Jeff Garvin, a physiology professor from Case Western University in Ohio. We hit it off, being kindred spirits of sorts. He was in San Diego for the Experimental Biology Meeting, and made a detour up to Fresno to give a talk at the University. Being a good host to a visiting scientist, I brought Jeff on a tour or some of my favorite local moderate multi-pitch rock climbing venues.

First off, Fresno Dome. We climbed the South Pillar (II, 5.7), Whiskey Bill (II, 5.8) and one of the sport climbs at Hawk Dome.

High up on the South Pillar of Fresno Dome - so good!

 The next day, we headed up to Sequoia National Park to climb the South Face of Moro Rock. Its one of my favorite climbs, 7 pitches long, and very high on adventure. It starts with a heinous bush-whack down a gully to the base.

Jeff on the approach

 I had climbed the route last year, but this time I had the pleasure of leading the entire climb. Beautiful. It has some run-outs, and exposed, committing moves. Its truly a magnificent climb.

Looking down from the top of one of the crack pitches

 We had a great time!

Castle Rocks in the background

Jeff at the end of the technical pitches.

We took a rest day (i.e. Jeff gave a talk in the Chemistry department) and then on our last day Teresa joined us, and we headed over to Shuteye ridge. We enjoyed another long moderate multi-pitch route on Chiquito Dome, then some fun sport climbing on El Grande, a beautiful 5.10 route. The sun was out, there was only 2 other climbers (on a very fun looking 5.11 -- now on my tick list). What a great way to end our trip

Teresa - at the top of Chiquito Dome

Climbers on Constellation

Me on the lower section of El Grande

 It was really nice to have Jeff visit, he's really a kindred spirit. I hope he visits every year!
 

Mt Shasta - Casaval Ridge solo

Mt. Shasta is really one of my favorite mountains for spring climbing. It has over 7,000 feet of elevation gain, most of it on a highly enjoyable ridge. Well consolidated snow, great views and short bits of exposure make it one of the more enjoyable routes on the mountain. 

Mt. Shasta's Casaval ridge. - Photo credit - Mt Shasta Avalanche Center

 I had climbed the route last year with Mitchell, but we were forced off the ridge due to some rock fall. So this time, I wanted to complete the entire route.

I drove up Friday night, and slept in the parking lot at Bunny Flat. I woke up around 7, and had a leisurely start.  I dropped my tent about 2000' up the ridge at 10 am, and then headed up to try and do the entire route in a day.

Morning view of Mt. Shasta from Bunny flat. Casaval ridge is to the left.

I by passed a large group also camping on the ridge, maybe a guided group? They had a massive tent that slept about 8 people!

Tent on the ridge

 Eventually I arrived at the steep traversing section of the ridge, with many gendarmes. A very interesting section of the climb.

Starting on the ridge proper

 

Steep traversing section

One of the many gendarmes on the ridge

After many hours on the ridge, I eventually crested the rim arriving at the summit crater. This part of the climb is the worst. Going from sea-level to 14,000' is rough. You think you are done, but then you have to go up one more big hill, and then a long flat section, then another short hill to reach the true summit. This last section would only take an hour if I had been acclimated, but I was sick, nauseous and feeling the altitude, so it took me at least 2 hours.

Misery hill. Ugh. The last section on the crater before reaching the true summit (back).

 I reached the summit, and descended Avalanche Gulch, then traversed back to my camp on the ridge. It took me about 12 hours from car-to-camp. Not fast, but reasonable given my lack of acclimitization.

A fun summit, and a good training run for Denali, which is coming up very quickly....