Secret Sierra - Climbing obscurities on the Western slope

With the whole Covid-19 thing shutting down my lab and the world, I have spent countless days over the past couple of months climbing at more obscure formations in the San Joaquin River gorge and in "Southern Yosemite".

In the past 90 days I have been outside climbing 35 days, logged more than 100 routes, and more than 200 pitches. Not bad for an old man.

First up, for my 40th birthday was the Fuller Buttes. I had wanted to do my first 5.12 redpoint on my birthday, but there was still far to much fresh grief from Penny's death for such a venture. Instead, we headed to the Fuller Buttes. These a massive pair of granite dome, 1000' tall, with perfect rock. Despite being in plain view, there is surprisingly little information on the climbing there. I managed to get information on two moderate Jerry Anderson routes on East Fuller Butte, "Meridian Passage, 7 pitches, 5.9" and "The substitute, 3 pitches, 5.8". We did both climbs, which were easy, and had mediocre slab climbing. The summit however was excellent!

Slabby granite on "Meridian Passage"

Trevor looks over at the West Fuller Butte

Sublime

Nice belay ledge

I turned 40 today (May 13th)

On a separate trip Trevor and I then hit up two domes in day, which was an excellent idea!

In the morning we climbed "Do it don't spew it" (III, 5.11c) on Disappearing Dome. The route was excellent, featuring a mix of crack, slab and dike climbing. Very fun! We followed that up in the afternoon with an ascent of "Snake" (II, 5.8) on Piyau Dome. What an amazing day!

Approaching the back of Disappearing Dome

Looking up at the first pitch of "Do it don't spew it"

Trevor is having a good time on the traverse 5.11a pitch!

The backside of Piyau Dome

Glory handjams on Snake

Trevor reflects on the grand day we had

In addition to all the domes, I have been spending a fair amount of time climbing at the Sphinx. This is a recently developed Sport crag, with 100+ climbs ranging form 5.7 - 5.12+. The climbing is featured, steep, well protected. Its some of the best sport climbing in our area!  Its quite fun to hop on routes not knowing the grade. I found myself a wonderful steep project there, in the 5.11+ - 5.12 range.

A wall at the Sphinx

Trevor climbs some steep granite

I climb some steep!

Teresa enjoys some moderate climbing at the Sphinx

In addition to the usually Shuteye ridge climbing, I managed to put up three new routes at Fresno Dome. There was a detached unclimbed pillar below the West face, which we dubbed "Penny's Pillar", in honor of our little buddy.

Penny's pillar

One of the new routes tackles the roof. Fun.

Although not on my 40th birthday, I did mange to nab that first 5.12 redpoint. "Merry Christmas" on the Christmas wall at Chilkoot, I successfully redpointed. Thanks to Teresa, Susan and Trevor for belaying me while I worked to link all the moves on that one.

First ascent at Disappearing Dome - "Penny Perfect" (5.10a, 4 pitches, 600')

On our last trip to Disappearing Dome, I spied a beautiful looking splitter crack below a roof system. With that in mind, Trevor, Teresa and I returned to the area to see if we could give it a go!

Perfect slab

We made three rappels down the approach gully, and I racked up and headed up the crack. What a crack, it was mostly glory hands, a truly perfect splitter! I was giddy and smiling the whole way up.

My first ascent of the crack (5.9)

Once I got up to near the end of the crack, I elected to put in a 2 bolt anchor, so that this crack could be climbed as a stand alone pitch. Some my disagree with my decision to put in bolts here, but hey, its my FA. Looking up a the roof, it certainly looked like it would go with gear, so I launched out from our belay onto pitch 2.

Heading out onto pitch 2

Into the roofs

There was good gear below and through the roof. The roof move itself was quite fun, maybe 5.10a (?) and very well protected. Above the roof I found myself facing either a long runout friction slab, or a not-fun plant filled water groove. I decided to put a single bolt in, and abandon the ground-up attempt.

We headed to the top of the dome, and while Teresa relaxed, Trevor and I rapped in form the top and figured out where the rest of the route would go. We added a few bolts to what would become the 3rd pitch. I ran out of battery and bolts, so we would have to return another time.

Attempt 1 - 1 pitch onsite, partial pitch 2, and equipped pitch 3.

A couple of weeks later Trevor and I returned, armed with more bolts, extra batteries and multiple ropes so we could fix all the way to the ground. We spent some time deciding on the best path and bolting pitch 2, and a fair amount of time removing all the plant matter from the crack on pitch 1. After about 4-5 hours of work, we ditched the fixed ropes and raped back down to the base so we could lead up from teh ground. Trevor and I swapped pitches, redpointing the route. The crux pitch is certainly pitch 2, with some tricky well bolted slab moves (5.10b?). All in all a great roue, and something I am proud of. It was wonderful completing this project with Trevor.

Dang, that's a nice splitter crack

Fun times!

Trevor graciously let me name the route, which I named in memory of Penny.

Penny Perfect, 5.10a, 4 pitches, 600 feet

8 QD, Gear to 3”, double #2, double or triple, 3 #1 useful.

FA Cory Brooks, Trevor Crough, 05/30/2020

Approach: Make three raps down the gully between the domes. Scramble down a bit and locate the obvious splitter crack below two triangular roofs.

P1 – Climb the perfect splitter below two triangular roofs. The crack starts with fingers and quickly progresses to thin hands, then glory #2 hands. Ends on a bolted anchor below the roof. Stellar pitch. 

70’, 5.9. Gear to 3”, Triple #1 useful. Double #2.

P2 – Head out right from the belay gain the thin crack, then head up and pull through the weakness in the triangular roofs. Above the roof, a technical slab is protected by bolts and optional gear in a plant filled water groove. From the slab head up into a pair of flake systems, and end up to the right past one more bolt on a good ledge with a bolted anchor.

180’, 5.10a. 7 bolts, gear to 3”

P3 – From the ledge head out left into some blocky and hollow flakes. Tread carefully here as some of the blocks may be loose, and the flakes are hollow and avoid placing gear until you reach a large right arching flake. Underling the flake, then traverse right past 2 bolts, and straight up past 2 more bolts to reach an alcove above a massive flake. Gear belay (#2, #1, #3)

 4 bolts, gear to 3’, 110’, 5.8

P4 – 230’. From the gear belay head straight up the easy runout slab. Be wary of potentially loose blocks just above the belay. Head up and slightly to the left to gain a bolted anchor on a rock shelf.

Gear to 1” 2 bolts, 230’, easy 5^th

Perfect Day, Perfect climb, a fitting tribute to a Perfect little dog

Penny's Memorial - Saying goodbye to my best friend

Penny Brooks (2008 - May 9, 2020)

This post is a tribute and a memorial to my little buddy. We had to say goodbye our little dog Penny. In extraordinary pain, after a dozen vet visits she was finally diagnosed with osteosarcoma, a bone cancer with low prognosis. Her suffering ended and we said our final goodbyes.

She died in our arms this morning. Her life ended peacefully, and I am thankful that we could both be there at the end.

Words cannot express the love and gratitude that Teresa and I felt for this little dog. We have no children and Penny filled that void in our lives. It feels like a piece of me is gone forever. She was family, and saying goodbye to her was the hardest thing I have ever had to do.

You truly were my best little friend Penny. I am going to miss you.

My best friend

We adopted Penny in December 9, 2009 in Edmonton, AB. She was a stray, found roaming the freezing streets of in an Alberta winter. We had originally planned to adopt a different dog, in fact Teresa explicitly stated that she did not want to adopt "a white dog with tear stains". But, we stopped by her kennel and she captured our hearts in a second. I will never forget that moment. She jumped right into our laps and lathered us with kisses. Teresa just looked at me, and in that moment we knew we had found our dog.

She was full grown when we adopted her, but still very much a puppy in attitude. We will never really know when she was born, but we guess she was born sometime in late 2008 or early 2009.

Penny right after adoption - Dec, 2009.

We lived in Edmonton with Penny from Dec 2009 until June 2013. Our lives were very different then, and Penny really became the focus of our leisure time. Weekends were spent at the wonderful dog park, or exploring easy trails at nearby provisional parks. Summers were spent camping, hiking and wandering in the Canadian Rockies. Penny was our constant companion. Always along for the ride, tail wagging, joy in her eyes.

Penny loving life on an autumn day at Elk Island National Park

Playing in the tall prairie grass

Like many dogs, Penny loved the snow. Winters in Alberta are long, dark and cold, but Penny didn't mind. No matter how cold or how much snow had fallen she was would run and play in the fresh snow.

Snow play

Always looking for a lap to sit on

Penny was a wonderful dog, but like all great dogs found herself in trouble from time to time.

Penny in trouble

Even more trouble

We traveled all across Canada with her. She came with us many times to the West Coast, and even made the long drive across the Great Plains to Thunder Bay. She loved to ride in the car with us, sitting on a lap was mandatory.

Penny in the Great Plains

Little dog with a big life

When our life changed and we made our big move to California, Penny was quick to adapt to our new home. Trips to the Sierra Nevada, to the crags, and to the ocean were all part of her weekend activities with us.

Sleeping on coats and backpacks were the new normal

Penny in Joshua Tree

Penny loved going to the dog beach on the coast

A little dog in the big wide world

The best way to travel

There are so many things I loved about her. How she came under the covers at night when she was cold. The hugs she would give me before I brought her for a walk. The kisses. The slow tip tap of her claws on the floor early in the morning when the cheese drawer opened. Digging in the bed and rolling around like a little beast. Her hatred of all living things non-human. Her highly precise peeing.

She was a happy dog, her life was bigger than her small body. We love her and will always miss her. Goodbye little friend, you are gone but will never be forgotten.

Goodbye Penny

Mammoth Pool Dome

We headed down to Mammoth Pool to check out the climbing possibilities. Its a pretty spot, but because is lower elevation is a bit hot. The climbing was mostly friction slab (which I am sick to death of). There has been a bunch of recent activity there, lots of shiny new stainless steel bolts. We explored all sides of the dome and climbed a handful of routes here and there.

Overview of Mammoth Pool Dome

Ringtail (5.7). You climb this right on the dam (Upper wall). Car-side climbing

Roadside crag

 

Penny approves

Steep slab climbs on the Back wall

Fuller Buttes and Balloon Dome

Fun day at Mammoth Pool!

Himalayan Adventure - Ama Dablam- Nepal

It's taken me a while to process this trip. In late Nov into Dec (2019) I traveled to Nepal for 30 days to try and climb Ama Dablam (22, 349'). Although the Khumbu region of Nepal is magnificent, and it was a great adventure, the trip took a lot out of me both mentally and physically, which is why it took so long to write this up.

The team trekking up to ABC. Ama Dablam in the background.

 Although there were lot of amazing things about the trip, overall I was disappointed by various aspects of the Himalaya and the style we climbed the mountain. I will get to these a bit later in this blog.

I also picked up a series of viruses. The first was a stomach virus which ruined my summit bid, forcing me to turn around just above 6,000 meters. The second was a super gnarly cold I picked up in Kathmandu, which lingered for about a month after my return to the US. 

Here's the details, and some photos for the few people who might read this. 

There was never a shortage of wonderful views

I joined a British team to climb the mountain, this time using Jagged Globe as the guide/outfitter.  They were terrific, unlike my experience with US guides, this felt far more independent, and the guide was not there to spoon feed or hold your hand. There was the UK climbers, a single guide from the UK (Jamie Houlding, who was excellent), a small climbing Sherpa team, and the various support staff - porters, Yak handlers, and the cook. Very luxurious, and pretty standard for Himalayan guided climbing. 

The group - From left to right to bottom - Me, Tony, Marcella, Charlie, Nick, Pem (our Sherpa Sirdar), John. Jamie is taking the photo.

I flew into Kathmandu from LA, met up with the team, then we took a small plane to Lukla, the start of the Khumbu region trekking routes, which includes access to Mt. Everest, and the Everest base camp trek. 

Lukla airstrip

Khumbu Skyline. Everest doesn't look so impressive does it?

The first week or so consisted of trekking along the Everest base camp trek, passing through small villages, staying at lodges. The Sherpa capital of Namche was pretty rad.

Namche - city in the clouds

Puppies playing

Hindu temple art

Along the way we passed by the exit to Ama Dablam basecamp and hiked up above 5000 meters past the village of Pheriche. There were wonderful views of the mountains Cholatse and Taboche. I think those are two peaks I would consider returning to the region for to climb. 

Our first foray above 5000 meters

 

Views from Periche.

We then circled back and headed up to the Ama Dablam basecamp, which would be our home for the next 3ish weeks.

As we were climbing at the very end of the Fall season, the base camp was fairly empty, only 2-3 other teams were present. The base camp was a pretty comfortable place to hang out.

 

Our luxurious base camp in the foreground

For the next while we settled into the acclimatization routine. We'd hike up high, then slept low. Then rest. Then hike high, sleep high, then back down. Rest. Then hike high, sleep high, then a bit higher, then back down to base camp. Rest. 

This was fairly tedious, especially after the first few rounds. I think if I am ever to climb a high peak again, I would prefer acclimatizing by climbing a bunch of smaller peaks, rather than spending so much time on a single mountain.

 

Acclimatization hike

 

Advanced base camp

The highest we slept on the acclimatization portion of the trip was camp, this was perched on top of some boulders and was quite cold, uncomfortable but had amazing views, especially when the clouds rolled in. We also spent a bit of time traversing on the technical terrain past Camp 1, which was quite fun. 

 

Traversing on the ridge

Above the clouds

 

Camp 1

After spending a night at Camp 1, it was back to basecamp for a few days. I hiked up again to Camp 1, rested, and then Nick and I did some day hikes, while we waited for the winds to die down so we could head up for the final summit attempt.

 

Lounging at basecamp

Nick and I on a chossy ridge adventure

After a few days the forecast cleared, cold (-20 F) but clear and no wind. So we started up, 1st up to Camp 1, then the technical rock bit on the ridge, then Camp 2.

A chilly night at Camp 1

Renji (Sherpa) traversing the 4th class terrain on the ridge

Charlie and John cresting the ridge

Nick, Charlie, John and Marcella  - hanging out at the base of the yellow tower

We reached the yellow tower, which is the technical crux (5.7, at 6000 meters elevation). I was able to do it free in my double mountain boots, which is much harder than it sounds. It's too bad I was not leading, but just attached to fixed lines (I'll come back to that later).

Nick - climbing the yellow tower

 After the yellow tower we reached camp 2, which was wild, and disgusting. Camp 2 is perched on a narrow section of the ridge, maybe 30 feet wide and 100 feet long. There is only room for a handful of tents, which are precariously perched there.

Nick at the top of the yellow tower

Camp 2

 

Camp 2

Camp 2 was disgusting. There was shit and trash everywhere. The place has zero waste management, which is a shame. I watched a guy from another team reach out of his tent with a pee bottle to empty it, where it promptly drained towards his boots.

I had a restless night, and started to feel worse and worse. This is where the first of the viruses I contracted hit me. I think I'll let a very disappointed video I made speak -- 

Not making the summit because of a stomach bug was a huge disappointment. My guess is the disgusting, shit laden Camp 2 was my undoing. I descended the ridge again, in beautiful weather, all the way back to base camp. My first failure on a big expeditionary peak. 

Marcella and Pem, heading down.

After that, I had to deal with the disappointment, and then we headed back to Lulka, where we caught a helicopter back to Kathmandu

Helicopter exit

Tony is bummed as well.

This trip was long, and dealing with my failure to summit was a difficult emotional issue for me. I have a few thoughts about the Himalaya in general:

1) The place is magnificent. It would be wonderful to climb there again, but without a guide and with a small committed and experienced team. 

2) Acclimatization is tedious. Next time, I would climb multiple mountains to acclimate. 

3) I should stay off the popular peaks (like Ama Dablam). The lack of waste management and the trash was a huge disappointment. I can't believe how disrespectful climbers can be. 

4) I didn't think the fixed ropes would bother me, but they did. As per point 3 above, sticking to less popular peaks would mean climbing in alpine style, which I appreciate more.

5) Being sick, getting injured, and getting older sucks.

I think I'm done with big expeditionary peaks for a while. I'm looking forward to working on my rock climbing skills, and climbing smaller, but more remote and technical peaks in North America.